Our assignment this week for my British Life and Culture class was for each flat group to go grocery shopping at different assigned grocery stores and buy a list of items. On this list were very “English” foods, such as black pudding (you’ve have to Google that – it’s disgusting), a jar of marmite (basically a jelly made of beer residue), stilton cheese, Earl Grey tea, a pasty (yes, a pasty – not to be confused with a pastry), and other various things. Well, my group as assigned to go to the Ginger Pig and La Fromagerie. And that’s where the adventure began.
To begin with, I was dressed like a soccer mom, so it just started off bad. It was surprising warm on Saturday, so I felt like wearing capris. But of course I didn’t have any summer shoes… therefore, I had to wear tennis shoes. Believe me, it just wasn’t a good look. And, as if you couldn’t tell from the name of our stores, they were in the more upscale part of town, so yeah, I definitely did not blend.
We get to La Fromagerie and aren’t really even sure if we’re allowed to shop there because it’s sort of like a restaurant and sort of like a store, but not really. The closest thing to compare it to is probably Panera Bread. Most people go there to eat, but then you still have the people who go there to buy bread and bagels. So anyways, we’re trying to find everything on our list, but for some reason we didn’t Google everything before we left – so, we really didn’t know what everything was. I finally asked a lady working there and she turned out to be really, really nice and helped us a lot! They didn’t have a lot of the things we needed, but that’s okay because our professor, Lyndon, said we probably wouldn’t be able to find everything at our stores. However, La Fromagerie definitely had stilton cheese. In fact, they had a whole refrigerated room of cheese. I can’t even describe the smell – a mix between stinky gym socks and spoiled milk. Unpleasant to say the least. But we got our cheese, so we were good to go.
Next came the Ginger Pig. Oh my, this one almost killed me for several reasons. First of all, I didn’t know it was a butcher’s shop, and anyone who knows me knows I’m not really a fan of killing animals or eating red meat. And right when you walk into the Ginger Pig, you are surrounded by bright red, raw meat of every shape and size. Definitely about lost my lunch on that one. We walk over to the counter and ask a man if we can buy some black pudding. He happened to be from Brazil and very nice as well. (We were very lucky that we encountered nice people that day.) He asked, “Umm… are you sure you want that?” And we said, “Yes, we’re supposed to buy it. Soo… what exactly is black pudding?” So he told us. All I can say is gross. It looks like a sausage and is made with blood and some sort of other material. We were lucky enough to get one with blood and pig’s head. Fantastic. But apparently, it’s quite the popular item in England. There was a whole bowl of it and our little Brazilian man said it would all be gone by tomorrow. Oh, and it also cost 13.50 pounds per kilogram. I can think of about 9,874 things I’d rather spend that much money on, besides a roll of bloody pig’s head. We bought the smallest piece possible and got out of the slaughterhouse as fast as possible.
And now the stinky cheese and black pudding are sitting in our refrigerator at our flat. I can’t wait to find out in class what we’re supposed to do with all that. I’m usually pretty good about making myself try different things, but after seeing pounds and pounds of raw red meat AND learning exactly what black pudding is, I think I’ll skip out on this one.
Oh, and today was another crazy adventure. All of my London books (and the Internet) recommended going to Brick Lane Market, so we thought we’d give it a try. Oh my. That was seriously the first time since I’ve been here that I did not feel safe. This market was supposedly in North London near the tube stop for Liverpool Street. After walking quite a while, passing a man drinking a large can of beer at 10:30 AM, another man trying to “woo” us, and a crack whore (seriously, she was for real – no exaggeration), we decided we were pretty much lost. So we turned down a random street and somehow ran into what was supposedly Brick Lane Market. There wasn’t much there, so I’m not exactly sure if we ever did find it… but let’s just say we didn’t stay long. We walked back to the tube stop as fast as we could and went to Camden Market instead. That market is so much better and makes me so happy. :)
I had some fabulous Chinese food again, and split a triple chocolate donut from the lovely donut cart with Mel. It was wonderful. And a much friendlier place than where we were before. I bought a few things for some people and myself, so it was a definitely a good time.
But of course, that’s not the end of the story. For some reason, they closed the Camden Town tube stop from 1:00 to 5:30 PM on Sundays to cut down on the crowds. (?) I don’t really understand the theory behind that, but whatever. So we had to try to figure out the bus system, which is slightly more confusing than the tube system. We were tired of waiting, so we sort of just jumped on the first bus that came by us. And unfortunately it was headed north and we really needed to be going south. I didn’t actually realize this until we were sitting on the bus and I pulled out my map. We were off my map of central London, so I figured it would be a good time to get off before we ended up in Scotland. Luckily, we weren’t too far from a different tube stop and rode that back to an area we knew without any problems.
Oh my, the adventures of London. Always a good time. :)
Until next time,
Rachel
4 comments:
Oh, Rachie, Rachie! I laughed as I read your entry. What adventures you are having. You will remember them all your life and someday will be telling your grandchildren (as they get ready to study abroad in London) about your fun times way back in 2008!
There is an old saying that there two things you never want to see made: laws and sausages.
Sausages, almost by definition, are made of the leftover scraps that the frugal farmer's wife dare not waste. That includes blood in most cultures.
I am with you on not thinking much of black sausage (or blood sausage or the Brits' white sausage, for that matter).
Stilton is something else again. Think a heavy-duty blue cheese and you will be somewhat close. Once you get past the smell, the taste is good. I have a British fan who thinks there is nothing better than Stilton, a sliced pear, some good bread, and a pint of ale. I tend to agree.
I am glad your teacher is including the food trials as a part of the program. Too many people travel and never taste the food of the host country.
Will you be having treacle tart? That stuff is (to me) sweet beyond sweet and I can't stand it. And how about bangers and toad in a hole and kidney pie and all those "puddings" (most of which are not puddings at all)? Much fun to try.
I am glad you left the area where you were uncomfortable right away and went to good old Camden Market. Bummer re the Tube but be happy the buses were running and your pass worked. A taxi would have shot the budget but good!
The blog is so fine. Keep it up!
Love, Grandma Jane
Holy moly girl! I know that "immersing" yourself in the culture is part of your learning experience, but I'm totally with you....I could not have withstood either of the food experiences you described. We went to a festival last weekend where they were actually butchering and skinning pigs. I have NO idea what came over him, but Lynn actually stopped to watch for a brief moment. I, on the other hand, turned on my heel and practically RAN in the other direction. GROSS!!!
Please, please be very careful about the parts of the city you choose to explore. Good thing you made your uh-oh in the daytime. I'm assuming the number of crack whores increases substantially after dark. ;)
I loved the pics you posted. Such fun looking places...particularly the huge donut stand. Keep them coming!
Hi Rach,
Won't your brother be so proud of you when he hears about your adventure into a butcher shop? Rubbing elbows with all that red meat! The next day or two may prove interesting in class if Lyndon has your groups bring all that in for a "taste" test. I guess that's all part of the experience.
I agree with Leeann, very glad you girls were able to get into and out of the seedier area quickly and during the day. Stay safe.
Looking forward to further adventures soon.
Love,
Dad
Hi Rachel,
Loved your entry today. My German grandmother used to talk about blood pudding. I don't recall ever seeing or tasting it, but it too sounds so gross I probably wouldn't anyway. Butchering used to be part of our yearly chores. We always did it on New Year's Day at Grandpa and Grandma's house. You probably wouldn't have enjoyed it, but it was tradition!
There were traditional food items were only available at butchering time. Cracklings were the best. They are pieces of fried fat that are left after cooking the fat and pressing out the lard. They usually disappeared quickly, because they are best when hot. The year I was pregnant with Dan I got so sick from the smell that I didn't really like them after that. Probably not very good for the cholesterol level.
This reply is much too long, but your entry brought up memories of the past.
Stay safe girl!
Aunt Carolyn
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